Southeast Asia Travel Journal

I just received news that the dates for this year’s Bali Arts Festival have been finalized. The festival will run from June 14 through to July 12. The festival celebrates 30 years this year, with eight countries sending troupes of performers, along with 22 provinces of Indonesia. You can find more information, and the full schedule, at the Bali Paradise web site.

I dropped by the National Gallery here in Bangkok today. I hadn’t been there in a while, but was pleased to see that the annual weekend art market is still going. The market takes place every Saturday and Sunday from February until June. Each month has a different theme, so the artists and works vary from month to month. If you’re in Bangkok during this time, drop by the museum while you’re in the Grand Palace area. It’s at the opposite end of Sanam Luang from the Palace.

The island of Koh Chang has been on my "to-do" list for a long time. Thailand’s second largest island is east of Bangkok, near the Cambodian border, and is being developed rapidly - some say too rapidly. So, when I read that Thailand’s Dusit hotel group had opened a new property on the island, and was offering some fantastic deals, I decided it was time to take a look. A discount fare on Bangkok Airways sealed the deal.

My Friday afternoon flight was about two-thirds full, confirming that the low season has definitely arrived. It seemed we were about to set down in a pineapple plantation when the runway finally came into view. Trat airport is another one of the ’boutique’ airline Bangkok Airways’ boutique airports. From the airport, you catch a van which will take you to the ferry, and then on to the hotel.

The Dusit Princess Resort, which just officially opened on 17 March 2008, is near the south end of the west coast, and the end of a long string of beaches with names like “White Sand” and “Lonely”. The resort occupies most of the small stretch of beach at “Bai Lan”. The resort is laid out with an open air lobby surrounded by buildings housing many different kinds of guest rooms. I went for the “pool villa” which featured its own small pool and outdoor jacuzzi. The room was large and airy, with high ceilings, a king size bed, and flat screen television with DVD player. The bathroom has a large walk-in shower and two sinks, as well as a door to the outdoor bathing area.

I really liked the room, even though there were a few build quality issues, most of which are natural in a new hotel. The things that are likely to cause a problem for some guests are the air conditioning, which struggled to cool the room in the heat of the afternoon, and the lighting, which is soft and subtle. The bed lamps are inadequate for reading, and there is no room light at all.

Outside the room are two pools, a coffee shop and bar. The beach-side pool is free-form and the wooden deck surrounding it has several small jacuzzi built into it. The beach here is far from Koh Chang’s best. The sand becomes rough stone just at the low tide level. The water is quite calm, as there is almost no surf.

There is almost no commercial development along the beach road around the hotel, although that will probably change soon. To see more of the island, I took a songtaew up to White Sand beach. As the name implies, White Sand beach is indeed a long, wide stretch of white sand, lined with hotels, resorts and bungalows. The main road along the coast is lined with the usual mix of cheap clothing shops and restaurants that is all too common to the haphazard development of Thai beaches. There are obvious signs of more building everywhere, even though much of what has been built is only half utilized. The town seems very sleepy, Koh Chang is one of the few places where some places close in the low season.

The Princess is a good place to stay if you want to be well away from the crowds in the high season. Even without the special promotion, the pool villa is still a good value at the regular rate you can get on most of the discount sites. You can view its price and availability here.

More photos of the resort can be seen in our photo gallery.

There’s a theory among some frequent visitors to Thailand, that you can tell the ‘real’ Thai aficionados from the wannabes by where they spend their beach time. The ‘players’ follow the clueless masses to Phuket, Samui or Pattaya, while those in the know head to Cha-Am or Hua Hin. That’s just the same sentiment expressed by posh resort chain Alila, which recently opened their first Thai property in Cha-Am. Here’s their press release:

ALILA TRANSFORMS THE RESORT EXPERIENCE IN ONE OF THAILAND’S BEST-KEPT DESTINATION SECRETS
5 February 2008

Travelers may flock to Thailand’s popular beaches in the likes of Phuket and Koh Samui, but those who prefer not to follow the crowd are discovering the charms of Cha-Am, a serene coastal town located on the sunrise side of the Gulf of Thailand. From 1st February 2008, visitors will be able to experience this paradise destination like never before with the opening of Alila Cha-Am, the latest exciting offering from Alila Hotels and Resorts.

Just two hours outside of Bangkok, Cha-Am is often by-passed by travellers on the way to neighbouring Hua Hin, its slightly busier twin town. But this once small fishing village has long been a popular weekend getaway for well-heeled Thai families and city-dwellers who come to bask in its tranquility. As a beachside resort, Cha-Am is more than equal to its overly crowded counterparts, boasting the longest stretch of white sandy beach in Thailand. Those in the know will also testify to the fabulous array of seafood restaurants that line the beach - one of the best ways to experience Cha-Am while savouring the glorious sea view.

Life here may be peaceful but it is by no means dull. The town offers the perfect location from which to explore the area’s rich local culture or embark on active adventures. It lies within the province of Petchaburi, dotted with a myriad of beautiful Buddhist temples. Its many nearby attractions include royal palaces, the picturesque Khao Luang Cave, and Kaeng Krachan, Thailand’s largest national park. A 25-minute drive will also take you to world-class golfing at Black Mountain Golf and Country Club. Or you can simply relax on the beach and enjoy the many water sports out at sea.

With the opening of Alila Cha-Am, holidaymakers will have the chance to enjoy this blissful destination in striking style. Cast aside any notions of a typical Thai resort. Alila Cha-Am is unprecedented - the first truly modern luxury beachside resort to be built in the town. A masterpiece of contemporary design unlike anything else seen here.

Designed by pre-eminent Thai architect Duangrit Bunnag, it is architecturally bold yet understated, blending harmoniously with its tropical surroundings. If first visual impressions don’t blow you away, then the unique Alila lifestyle experience will. Guests are spoilt for choice. Dine in style at the ultra chic Clouds Loft and Motion restaurants. Chill out at the hip Red Bar. And experience well-being at its most natural with Spa Alila treatments and spa dining, using ingredients grown in the hotel’s own organic garden. Guests can also engage with the destination in a truly personalised way through Alila Experiences - tailored packages that offer culinary and cultural excursions, intimate couples’ celebrations, and wellness and active lifestyle pursuits

You can find out more at the Alila web site.

Note as per the comment (thanks Ed!), the festival has been postponed to June. I can’t find any information on the new dates, so you’ll just have to keep checking the web.

The Pattaya Music Festival has proven to be very popular among locals as well as foreign travelers each year. This international flair is also reflected in the music events, bands and shows that can be seen on the festival. There is always a diverse mixture of local Thai and foreign music acts.

The music itself does not follow any specific style. You will find all facets of modern music, from hip-hop, pop, rock to electronic music. There is even jazz and easy-listening sessions at the Pattaya Music Festival. Throughout the event numerous bands will be playing as well as DJs spinning the newest tunes from all over the world.

This year the Pattaya International Music Festival 2008 will be held for three days, from 21 until 23 March. The event will not just be about live concerts and music but include many music-related activities and performances. Music books, music magazines, and CD’s are also on sale.

See my Pattaya travel guide for more information about Pattaya.