As Songkran – the Thai new Year – draws near, it means the anniversary of my first trip to Thailand is upon me. It was 1987 – 22 years ago – that I first landed in Bangkok, totally clueless about what I was in for. Little did I realize the epiphany I would experience on that trip, or the way it would change my life. But, that’s actually a whole other story. No, this entry is about the changes that have taken place in Thailand over the last 20-plus years. To start with, I went back to a story I first wrote in 1998 and have updated it some more.

My very first visit to Thailand was just around 22 years ago. Then, it was the king’s fifth cycle (60^th) birthday, and it was called "Visit Thailand year". Later, in 1998, was His Majesty’s sixth cycle birthday and 50 years since his coronation, so we had "Amazing Thailand", which turned out to be one of the most successful promotions the Tourism Authority ever produced. So much so that they’ve gone back to it a few times over the years when things have gotten bad, like now for example.

It was more than just an advertising campaign. All of Bangkok’s main attractions – and many of Thailand’s other tourist places – were spruced up and renovated. The Grand Palace has always been kept in the very best condition. The statues and chedis always seem freshly guilt, and the murals around the courtyard are seemingly under constant renovation.

Wat Po, next to the Grand Palace, also got a complete face lift. But nowhere is the change so dramatic as at Wat Arun. In the first photo in the box at right taken on my very first visit to Thailand in April 1987, the large prang which dominates the east side of the river is clearly gray with age.

Between 1995 and 1998, the temple was completely renovated. It appears to have been completely re-plastered and all the bits of pottery making up the decoration have been cleaned or replaced. Even now it now appears almost new, with mainly white bits of porcelain picked out in dark green.

Of course, the renovations haven’t all been for the good. I’ve been rather disappointed by the changes made over the years to the temple on Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai. It was a quite charming place in 1987, with various bric-a-brac on the low wall surrounding the chedi.

By 1998, everything has been re-gilded and every inch of white plaster has been covered with gray granite. That includes the ground. The highly polished stone really throws back the heat. On a hot day – and let’s face it, that’s most of them – you can actually burn your bare feet walking around on the granite.

I guess some people just don’t know when to stop when it comes to redecorating. In any case, it seems to be that everything old is new again, so to speak. If you come to Thailand for the first time now, you’ll see everything at its very best. If it’s been a long time since you visited Bangkok, you may not recognize the place!

Of course, some changes have been unquestioningly for the good. In 1999 Bangkok got the Skytrain, which makes it very easy to get around the city without a car. Then, in 2004 we got the subway, opening up more of the city. The number of parks in Bangkok has nearly doubled as well. Actually, about the only thing that has remained the same over these 20-plus years is Thai politics. I moved to Thailand just a couple weeks before the democracy riots of 1992, and, well, things have been a bit more peaceful since then, but there are still protesters on the streets and crooks in parliament.

Posted by michael under Life in Thailand
Tags: Bangkok • Chiang Mai
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