Just back from…

Traditionally styled monuments and modern buildings in Phnom Penh, can the city modernize and retain its charm?

It wasn’t that long ago that I first visited Phnom Penh. I think the first time was in 2005, and it’s amazing how much the place has changed, mostly for the better, but the pace and degree of change is a little worrisome. When I first visited, almost every road in the city was badly in need of re-paving, and there was trash piled up everywhere.

Today, the city is much cleaner than it was, and it’s rare to come across a street that needs paving. Unfortunately, those nicely paved streets are increasingly full of cars, as well as massive numbers of motorcycles driven by madmen. There actually is something resembling a rush hour now, when those picturesque wide boulevards are almost impossible for pedestrians to cross.

Modernization didn’t stop with paved streets, of course. In the last year or so several high-rise buildings have appeared on the skyline, although only one or two are completed so far. It doesn’t appear there will be anything too ugly, but there won’t be any notable structures either.

Up to now, the new buildings haven’t significantly impacted the rich architectural history of Phnom Penh, which was one of the five things I like about Phnom Penh, although that is definitely at risk. No, for now the question is: Will the rush to modernize cause Phnom Penh to lose that special laid-back feeling that makes the city such a pleasant place to be?

Truth be told, there aren’t that many sights in Phnom Penh. You can see most of what there is in a day or less, but what makes the city worth a few days, in my opinion, is the pleasant atmosphere of walk-able streets, great cafés and the overall easy livability of the city. All that is at risk if the city gets over-developed. Like so many popular destinations in Southeast Asia, over-development could make Phnom Penh lose the very thing that attracts people there in the first place.