Strawberry Lime Punch

You get three menus when you take a seat at Vanilla. One is the drinks menu, one the food, and then there’s a small list of chef’s specials. From the specials menu I selected the strawberry lime punch. Strawberry juice is getting quite popular around Bangkok these days, but this was something a little different. Sweet but a little tart as well.

Italian Sausage Salad

Someone had highly recommended the burgers at Vanilla, but on the day the salads sounded much better. I decided to try the Italian Sausage Salad. Now, in Thailand you never know what you’re going to get when you order Italian sausage, except that it’s very unlikely that it will have any resemblance to what my mom got from the Italian butcher when I was a kid. In this case what I got was thin slices of dry pepperoni, grilled. Together with grilled peppers and the balsamic vinegar dressing, it was like eating a pizza, without the heavy carbs.

Lemon Sugar Crepes

The light main course left room for a little dessert. There’s a display case full of delicious looking cakes at the front of the restaurant, while the menu has a long list of various crepe flavors. I decide on the lightest-looking option, the lemon-sugar crepes, and a hot cappuccino, The crepes were quite good, if perhaps a little overdone. The cappuccino was brewed by a barista who apparently did time at Starbucks, as it has all their hallmarks of extra stiff foam and a temperature that made it too hot to drink. The coffee itself was a good quality.

Vanilla is rather good for the price. You can get a good meal here for around 500 Baht per person.

The interior of Saladaeng Cafe

Saladaeng Cafe was one of the first restaurants opened by the company, and to date it’s the only one that isn’t part of a Jim Thompson shop. The casual café is very close to Bangkok’s central business district, making it a handy place for lunch or business dinner.

The menu at Saladaeng Cafe is mostly Thai, although there are a few western dishes to choose from as well. There are individual dishes as well as main courses that can be shared among several people. The menu also has a good selection of drinks, with fruit juices, smoothies and other items to choose from.

Stir-fried Pork with Holy Basil

A favorite of mine from the menu, when I’m on my own, is the stir-fried pork (or chicken) with holy basil, garlic and chili. This Thai dish is widely available and can be found in many varieties. At Saladaeng Cafe, it comes full of flavor and very spicy, although the chili doesn’t completely over-power the dish, which is a mistake some cooks make. In my opinion, the Thai food at Saladaeng Cafe is more ‘authentic’ than you’ll find at many other Thai restaurants in Bangkok that cater to tourists. It hasn’t been ‘dumbed down’ for western tastes.

Expect to pay around 300 Baht per person for a meal at Saladaeng Cafe. See the Saladaeng Cafe web site for a map and more information.

The result is that, during the years of rapid economic development from the late 1970s through the 1980s, a lot of old house were torn down and turned to scrap. By the early 1990s, when a wave of nostalgia made traditional wooden homes popular again, a logging ban combined with the years of destruction to make old houses a very valuable commodity.

Fortunately, some houses were preserved, and some are open to the public. Here’s a short list of the three most accessible houses around Bangkok:

The Jim Thompson House

Entrance to the Jim Thompson Thai House

The group of traditional wooden houses collected by silk magnate Jim Thompson is perhaps the most obvious place to get your fix of Thai style. The houses were collected at a time when there was almost no value in such things, so people were happy to get some money from the crazy American in exchange for their ‘junk’. The museum complex now includes an outlet of Jim Thompson’s Thai Silk Company, a gallery space and a branch of the Jim Thompson Cafe.

The Jim Thompson House is very accessible, just a short walk from the National Stadium Skytrain Station.

Suan Pakkad Palace

The Lacquer Pavilion at Suan Pakkad Palace

This collection of traditional Thai buildings was bought together by some minor royals in the early 1950s. The Prince and Princess Chumbhot were avid collectors of all things Thai, and were something of amateur archaeologists as well. There is a large modern building on one side of the complex which displays some of the oldest pottery found in Thailand.

The houses themselves are excellent examples of central Thai architecture, but the most distinctive building in the compound is the "Lacquer Pavilion", a small chapel rescued from a provincial temple. The exterior is partly covered in gold leaf, while the interior walls are covered with a traditional style of gold and black lacquer illustrations. It’s well worth spending some time looking at the scenes of daily life in old Siam.

The name of Suan Pakkad literally translates to "cabbage patch" because the palace was once surrounded by farmland on the outskirts of Bangkok. Now, however, the palace is surrounded by the big city, just a short walk from the Phayathai Skytrain Station.

M.R. Kukrit Heritage House

M.R. Kukrit Heritage House

The house of former Prime Minister, statesman and writer M.R. Kukrit is probably the least visited of the three options, but it’s also arguably the most charming. Displayed pretty much as he left it, the M.R. Kukrit Heritage House reflects the vision of this extraordinary man, who for many years was one of the few voices for the preservation of Thai traditions and culture.

While a bit more of an effort to reach than the other two houses, you can still reach the house by Skytrain, followed by a ten minute walk.

The two-floor branch was already almost full when I got there a little past noon. It appeared all of the patrons were Thai, so I was the only Westerner in the place. I managed to secure a little table in the corner on the second floor. The restaurant is decorated in a casual yet rather genteel style, with padded booths and glass tables.

Thin noodles in a thick gravy.

The menu at Coffee Beans by Dao is extensive and eclectic. The focus is very much on Thai food, but there are some European dishes including sandwiches and even some Mexican selections, although done in a very Thai style. The place is very popular with Thais, so you can assume that the Thai food is good. Although I’ve tried many things in the past, for this visit I finally settle on the "goisimi" – very fine rice noodles with a thick gravy mixed with shredded chicken and vegetables. This is a very mild dish, similar to the more popular lad na, which is usually served with wide rice noodles. It’s served very hot and makes for a hearty meal.

Mango Yogurt Cake and a Cappuccino

I suspect that one big reason for Coffee Beans by Dao’s popularity is their cakes, so dessert here is definitely a must. There’s a large menu of pastries available, which includes cakes, tortes, cheesecakes, crumbles and many more. I note that many of the Thai groups tend to go down for a look at the display case and order several different slices, which are shared between the group (and yes, Thais do eat cheesecake). I decide to try the mango yogurt cake, along with a cappuccino. The plain yellow cake is filled with light fluffy whipped cream frosting mixed with huge chunks of fresh mango. It goes well with the cappuccino, which is made with a strong double shot of espresso.

Coffee Beans by Dao probably isn’t worth going out of your way to visit. If you’re staying in the area – at the Conrad or Le Meridien Plaza Athenee, for example – then it would be a convenient place near your hotel for a lunch or dinner, and it does have free wi-fi, so it might be a useful escape in the afternoon. Expect to pay around 200 Baht for main dishes, 100 Baht for drinks or dessert.

City Line Train at Phayathai Station

The City Line is a commuter service – Bangkok’s fourth train line – serving the rather large suburbs between the airport and the city center. The City Line has one terminus at the airport, but it makes several stops between the airport and continues past the City Terminal for two more stations to end at the Phyathai station, with access to the Skytrain Phyathai station. The cost for a ride on the City Line will vary according to distance, from 20 to 40 Baht.

The City Line trains are similar to the other commuter trains in Bangkok, with hard plastic seats, and not a lot of them. They feel a little wider than the other trains, but that may just be due to the absence of center poles. The City Line does have room (too much room, in my opinion) to put any large suitcases next to the doors, so it can be used by penny-pinching travelers. It takes about 30 minutes to make the trip from one end to the other.

Aw Taw Gaw Farmers Market

The bright and clean Aw Taw Gaw farmers market

The Aw Taw Gaw market in Chatuchak is, both literally and figuratively, one of Bangkok’s most accessible fresh markets. In the literal sense, one exit from the Kampangphet subway station is right inside the market, so it’s very easy to get to. Figuratively speaking, the market is one of the cleanest and brightest markets in Bangkok. It’s also so close to the Chatuchak weekend market that most of the vendors are used to the occasional tourist wandering through, and some may even speak a little English. They all definitely know how to put up a display that will keep you and your camera busy.

The market is run by the Thai Agriculture Ministry as a sort of demonstration market, which is why it’s so neat and clean. It underwent a major refurbishment from 2008 to 2009, which explains why it’s currently so bright and cheery. Many of the stalls will pack big purchases for shipping, but be sure you can bring in fresh fruit to your home country before buying.

Pak Klong Talat

Fresh flowers are now the main draw at Pak Klong Talat

For many years, the market at the mouth of the Lord Canal was Bangkok’s primary wholesale fresh market, where produce from the north would arrive by barge and be off-loaded at large docks. Most of the fresh fruit and produce wholesale trade has moved to a market north of Bangkok, but there’s still quite a bit of trade done at Pak Klong Talat, especially in flowers and sweets. The market, which is right next to the Memorial Bridge express boat pier, is at its best early in the morning, and can be quite sleepy by lunch time.

Klong Toey

Tom Yum spices on sale at Klong Toey

The sprawling market near Bangkok’s main seaport is perhaps the most "authentic" of the three. The fresh market sells everything one could need for a traditional Thai meal, from seafood to fresh herbs, spices, vegetables and fruits. While at its busiest in the morning, there’s plenty to see at almost any time of day. The Klong Toey market is just a short walk from the Queen Sirikit Convention Center subway station.

Enchiladas at Sunrise Tacos

I’ve eaten at Sunrise a few times, and I’ve sample all of their locations. The food is very consistent from one location to another. The main dishes such as tacos, enchiladas and burritos are all good, although the customary sides of beans and rice then to be quite bland on their own. The rice in particular is quite coarse and tasteless without the addition of salsa.

The menu has all of the Cali-Mexican standards, as well as Margaritas and a few imported Mexican beers. There are special "build your own" sheets at each table for customers to design their own tacos or burritos. Expect to pay 200 to 300 Baht for main dishes.

Sunrise Tacos can be found in the Emporium and Siam Paragon shopping malls, as well as on Sukhumvit Road not far from the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. Check the Sunrise Tacos web site for more details and home delivery options.

The Andouille Sausage Plater

I’ve had a chance to sample a lot of Bourbon Street’s menu through some networking events held there, and this is one of those places where "everything on the menu is good," at least in my experience. On my most recent visit, I tried the Andouille Sausage Plater, one of several sausage platters available. The sausage was quite spicy – hot enough to be too much for some Thais I know – and was served with a healthy helping of rich mustard.

Bourbon Street is a comfortable place for a casual meal, and it can be a great place to meet up with several friends over good food, and good drinks. The restaurant is easily reached via Skytrain to the Phrom Pong station. See the Bourbon Street web site for more information.

The Chinese style goods on sale at Hundred Children

Hundred Children might be said to have something of an identity crisis. It apparently started out as a rosewood furniture shop that also sells Chinese-styled housewares. Somewhere along the line they started selling coffee and tea as well, so customers take a seat at one of the small dining tables, or the sofas, surrounded by stacks of knick-knacks.

A ham & cheese croissant with an iced coffee

The food menu at Hundred Children is a small selection of light meals, along with a thick book of coffee and tea, along with some other drinks. The food is nothing special, but it’s more than adequate if you’re in need of a snack. The coffee is a good quality, and there are a number of options to choose from. There are also, of course, a wide selection of teas. Prices are quite reasonable, with drinks under 100 Baht and food items well under 200.

Location is a big part of Hundred Children’s attraction. It’s located right beneath the Asoke Skytrain station, so it’s a handy place to rest when changing between the Skytrain and the subway if I’m early for an appointment. Specifically, the shop is right on Sukhumvit Road at the mouth of Soi 14.

Check the Hundred Children web site for additional information.

A standard guest room at the AETAS Hotel

The AETAS Hotel is already available from the major booking engines, so check my Asia for Visitors hotel detail page for more information and pictures, or visit the AETAS Bangkok web site.