My very first visit to Thailand was just around 22 years ago. Then, it was the king’s fifth cycle (60^th) birthday, and it was called "Visit Thailand year". Later, in 1998, was His Majesty’s sixth cycle birthday and 50 years since his coronation, so we had "Amazing Thailand", which turned out to be one of the most successful promotions the Tourism Authority ever produced. So much so that they’ve gone back to it a few times over the years when things have gotten bad, like now for example.

Wat Arun in 1987 – "before"

"After" a face-lift

It was more than just an advertising campaign. All of Bangkok’s main attractions – and many of Thailand’s other tourist places – were spruced up and renovated. The Grand Palace has always been kept in the very best condition. The statues and chedis always seem freshly guilt, and the murals around the courtyard are seemingly under constant renovation.

Wat Po, next to the Grand Palace, also got a complete face lift. But nowhere is the change so dramatic as at Wat Arun. In the first photo in the box at right taken on my very first visit to Thailand in April 1987, the large prang which dominates the east side of the river is clearly gray with age.

Between 1995 and 1998, the temple was completely renovated. It appears to have been completely re-plastered and all the bits of pottery making up the decoration have been cleaned or replaced. Even now it now appears almost new, with mainly white bits of porcelain picked out in dark green.

Wat Doi Suthep in 1987 – "before"

"After" a face-lift in 1998

Of course, the renovations haven’t all been for the good. I’ve been rather disappointed by the changes made over the years to the temple on Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai. It was a quite charming place in 1987, with various bric-a-brac on the low wall surrounding the chedi.

By 1998, everything has been re-gilded and every inch of white plaster has been covered with gray granite. That includes the ground. The highly polished stone really throws back the heat. On a hot day – and let’s face it, that’s most of them – you can actually burn your bare feet walking around on the granite.

I guess some people just don’t know when to stop when it comes to redecorating. In any case, it seems to be that everything old is new again, so to speak. If you come to Thailand for the first time now, you’ll see everything at its very best. If it’s been a long time since you visited Bangkok, you may not recognize the place!

Of course, some changes have been unquestioningly for the good. In 1999 Bangkok got the Skytrain, which makes it very easy to get around the city without a car. Then, in 2004 we got the subway, opening up more of the city. The number of parks in Bangkok has nearly doubled as well. Actually, about the only thing that has remained the same over these 20-plus years is Thai politics. I moved to Thailand just a couple weeks before the democracy riots of 1992, and, well, things have been a bit more peaceful since then, but there are still protesters on the streets and crooks in parliament.

Of course, as one commenter on the Post’s web site has already pointed out, the problem could also be exacerbated by the horrendous air pollution Chiang Mai has experienced during this year’s field burning season.

In any case, the pollution will blow away in the next month or so, and in the wake of the fall-off in business, you can expect more competition than ever on room rates during the low season. This is where the good news – the silver lining for you – comes in. The north can be a great place to visit in the rainy season, when rains come in the afternoon, leaving mornings free to explore. This may be a great year to spend more time in the north. Check out my Chiang Mai hotel reviews for ideas.

The pool and guest rooms of the Manathai Village.

 
As for me, I’m staying at the Manathai Village, a small hotel in the warren of narrow alleys between the night bazaar and the old city. The location is handy, and quiet at night, but the streets around it are quite a maze, so if you have a bad sense of direction, you might get lost trying to find your way back to the place on foot. Many taxis seem to know it, as the airport taxi guy seemed to know exactly where he was going.

Manathai is from the same mold as Tamarind Village and Tri Yaan Na Ros, both of which I’ve stayed at before. All these hotels shoot for designs with a bit of local flavor, through simple white-washed spaces and clean-lined dark wooden furniture. Each of them will appeal to some people, and totally turn off others. My room at the Manathai is comfortable enough, and in looking around at the other rooms this morning, it seems I have one of the least desirable rooms in the property. If you decide to stay here, go for the deluxe or better rooms, and try to get one on the second floor for more privacy.

As with many "design" hotels, there are a few annoying details, or lack of them. The part that’s lacking is any place to put my suitcase, other than on the floor. The other detail is the towel rack, which is on the farthest wall of the bathroom, behind the huge square bathtub. The trouble with this is that if you’re taking a shower using the separate rain-shower head, you have to step into the tub to reach a towel. It’s kind of silly when there’s plenty of space on the wall next to the shower for a towel rod.

Aside from the above minor annoyances, there are some very nice things about Manathai. The room has free wi-fi Internet access, and if you don’t carry your laptop with you, there are some computers in the library to use free of charge. The library also has several DVDs you can borrow to watch in your room, if there’s nothing on the several cable channels that appeals. Breakfast was also a surprise. The buffet is rather small, as you might expect from a place with only 20 to 30 rooms, but most everything is well made, fresh. I haven’t seen any frozen processed hash-browns or warmed up sliced ham. This morning they had freshly shredded potatoes and big chunks of ham stir-fired with onions and sweet peppers. There’s no "egg station" as they do at most hotels. Instead, you order your eggs from a list of half-dozen choices and the waiter will bring them to your table from the kitchen.